Day 50 (19/1/10) - Istanbul (The Crimson Flag That Proudly Ripples In This Glorious Dawn)

Although the last day in any place usually means packing for us, we still managed to get out of the hotel for a bit. It was raining steadily, so we caught a taxi up to the Edirnekapı district to see the famous Chora Church (I have a feeling the meter was not so orthodox, as we paid 40 YTL for what should have been a 20 YTL journey).


Although briefly converted into a mosque during the Ottoman Empire, the church is now a museum where one can appreciate the old artwork from Byzantine times.



By the time we emerged from the church it was well and truly snowing, so we didn't want to walk around too much. We did have to navigate our way to the main road, which wasn't too difficult, and we stopped along the way to pick up some things from a supermarket and say hello to a couple of kittens taking shelter outside it.

We had lunch at Malkoc's and were treated to free tea again. We also tried a traditional Turkish sweet called baklava, which I really loved.


In between lunch and a late dinner we finished up our packing. Dinner tonight was at Rumist, where Turkish Kirby (or Tirby, as we call him) was up to mischief. He somehow got inside the restaurant and, sensing allies in us, settled at our feet beneath our table. When some American patrons spotted him the owners kicked him out...but wiley little Tirby wound up back inside again and nuzzled up to our legs. It took a while but the owners managed to get him out (they said he likes to jump on the tables and eat people's food). However we did discover that he is their cat, and his name is actually Sultan.


It feels appropriate that we have spent the portion of our trip between Europe and Asia in a city that straddles both; where, quite literally, east meets west. Istanbul has been an eye-opening experience for the both of us. It has seen the rise and fall of empires and religions, and these stages in its history are reflected in the well-preserved art, monuments and streets...even below the ground. The city demands attention: from the restaurateurs and vendors hawking their wares to the adhān (call to prayer) that rings out from minarets across Istanbul five times daily.

"View not the soil you tread on as mere earth - recognize it!" This line from the Turkish national anthem makes one realise how special it is to be able to walk the stone floors of mosques and cobbled paths of the old city where men and women of empires past once trod. There is a sense that you are part of something great. And though the frescoes may fade and the gold leaf lose its luster, I think Istanbul - at least for me - will retain its appeal for years to come.